The shape of things to come

You’d have to be a hibernating bear (and indeed have been hibernating for quite some time) to be completely unaware of the current worldwide financial crisis. A consequence of this meltdown is that the style sections of newspapers and magazines are now devoted to churning out features on investment dressing. Hem lines! WHAT. DO. THEY. MEAN? Some say they rise, and some are adamant that they fall with the stock market.

Ddjhfjkhudsuuuuuut6y7ue eeeebdhjsssPU)cl;xz zzzzzzzzzz’. Oh, sorry! Seem to have dozed off there. Trying to keep track of what length my skirt should be and the cost per wear of any investment pieces I am thinking of purchasing has left me simply exhausted.

But, there is more to say on this subject then what’s currently being recycled in the media, which is “customers should look for investment pieces and value for money”. Well. Yes.

Jess Cartner-Morley, fashion editor at the Guardian explores this well excavated subject a little further in this article, lean times and hemlines. It’s a feature about how fashion will be affected by the credit crunch, in the aesthetic sense rather than a business one. She reflects upon the trends that emerged from the boom and bust times in recent history with a view of defining this economic crisis’ appearance. She draws no firm conclusions but she does highlight a couple of interesting theories including this one from Valerie Steele, internationally renowned Fashion Historian:

The hemlines theory was invented back in the 1920s. But it just doesn’t hold up. Take the 20s – hemlines actually began to fall in 1927, two years before the crash. They were falling by 1969, two years before the downturn of 1971

Contrary to popular belief it would seem that the ‘look’ of the great depression was actually a result of what was fashionable the two years prior to it.

Jess then goes on to quote Jo Hooper, Head of Womenswear at John Lewis. Hooper implies that the softer, sculpted, voluminous silhouette that is becoming popular will be the defining look of the recession. She identifies the current vogue for the round-shouldered look as:

cocooning, which is the feeling of wrapping up, of hunkering down. It’s a basic human instinct.

Both of these theories are very feasible. However never one to rest on my laurels, I decided to do some research of my own. Mystic Meg wouldn’t return my calls, so I settled for the next best thing: Mark Watson, the Womenswear Editor at trend forecasting agency WGSN. I asked him for his thoughts on what he felt the look of the credit crunch would be. This is the PG version of his email response:

The most obvious effect of ‘The credit crunch’ as we saw during Paris Fashion week is that most designers will march to their own tune, sticking to what they know best and satisfying customers who are loyal to their labels rather than putting their heads on the chopping block of fashion whimsies. What may be of interest is that prior to this financial crisis designers were focusing on the shoulder and the power dressing 80s particularly taking silhouettes from Thierry Mugler and Claude Montana. In times of a strong financial system there is a the ‘power’ look whilst we at WGSN are currently moving towards a more fantastical, ethereal feeling soft layers, a looser silhouette looking at Bill Gibb also Nina Ricci collection in Paris.

Reading these three very different responses from credible industry experts; it is obvious that defining what the aesthetic of the credit-crunch will be is no easy feat. Not least because there are no parallels to be drawn between ‘fashions’ from one recession to the next. Each financial crisis has been brought about by different economic factors, which therefore in turn mean consumer habits, circumstances and attitudes are unique to that period of time.

Nevertheless history will record that this recession had a ‘style’ just as it has done for the 1930s and 1970s, regardless of whether it was actually the result of the downturn.

So, lets try and put this subject to bed once and for all! Vote! VOTE! VOTE LIKE YOU ARE SHAPING TOMORROW! Because you are.

Edith

All images are SS09 from Style.com. In order of appearance: Balmain, Balenciaga, Nina Ricci

The allure of the peep-toe boot

One of ‘fashion’s’ greatest strengths is its ability to make us covet things that sometimes at best can only be described as ridiculous. For example, I stumbled across these ‘vintage 80s neon leotard bandage onesie shorts’ (the sellers words – not mine) on ebay, which are evil for so many reasons. And yet I find that I desire them. I long to touch the stretchiness of this obscure playsuit. It’s absurd. But I feel myself drawn to them like a moth to a flame. Excited yet scared by the styling quandary they create. I can remember feeling like this 15 years ago. I was 11 and it was school sports day. I kept thinking that I needed to wee. It was actually nerves and adrenalin rather than a weak bladder. If I win… how will I work a gold badge / Lycra jumpsuit seamlessly into my existing wardrobe?

I feel the same way about the peep-toe boot as I do about the stretch clown suit from ebay. I first noticed peep-toe boots when they began to emerge on the catwalks last winter, I was temporarily distracted by a rather fetching boyfriend blazer though so didn’t have time to give them any serious thought. However, I’ve since refocused my mind because they’re starting to surface in stores and have been the topic of many a conversation at work. I have to admit, I want a pair so bad that I am considering going into Browns and licking this Marni pair in the vain hope that the sales assistant will take pity on the mad lady and and just comp me a pair.

Highly unlikely, I think you’ll agree (not the licking obviously, the getting a pair for free). So, as I can’t afford to buy so much as a button right now (I bid big on the neon onesie) I’m going to use this post as a form of therapy to help me through my shoe grief. It is after all a very wise action indeed for me not to purchase these divine Tory Burch boots from Net-a-Porter.
First and foremost, lets discuss practicality (blasphemous in fashion I know). Boots with holes in! Ha! HAHAHAHAHAHA! That’s just asking for trouble given that the worlds population of 2 billion cows have decided to avenge us for eating them the only way they know how, by farting. They release so much methane that they have assured the destruction of the planet by accelerating global warming (it’s definitely the cows fault, not ours). This has caused us to be plagued by rain even in August, never mind in the traditional boot wearing season! Feet that have prolonged exposure to cold, damp conditions get trench foot! I know! I’m willing to risk developing a hump back by dragging my enormous and over filled handbag around town; but a stinky fungal infection is quite a different kettle of fish. My vintage clothes hum-ding bad enough as it is, I really don’t want to add another layer of smell to the situation. Oh, and don’t even get me started on the aesthetics of these boots. The proportions are, well, plain strange. Clumpy and cumbersome.

Lastly, there is a strong chance that the peep-toe boot will be a flash in the fashion pan (like those pixie flats that turned up at the toe – remember those?). Next year everyone will snigger at them and be like “soooooooo 2008″. Hmmm? Actually, thinking about it, maybe they will smile and be like “sooooooo 2008” in a good way? Because they are iconic. You know? Instantly recognisable for their sheer brilliance, like the Balenciga floral meets American football collection. And the proportions do sorta work really, dontcha think? A bit like a screwball icecream, odd yet delightful with a weird surprise at the end.

Oh, who am I kidding? I love them. I neeeeed them! I’m not ashamed! MY NAME IS EDITH PURDY AND I LOVE PEEP-TOE BOOTS! Godammit, they look good and I can wear them with my vintage 80s neon leotard bandage onesie shorts so they are practical after all! ARE. YOU. WITH. ME?!

*tumbleweed*

OK, fine. I can live with that. The cheese stands alone. Just promise me that when I’m still wearing them next year and you say “they are soooooo 2008″, that you’ll say it with a smile and pretend not to notice the smell.

Edith

Cult style

Two of my very good friends are getting married this year. I am excited about this for two reasons. Firstly, the idea of wearing an Isabella Blow worthy hat. And secondly, the thought of experiencing the joyous moment of seeing people I care about declare their love and commitment to one another in front of family and friends (wow that was a long sentence). But it’s mainly the hat thing.

When my friends announced their engagement I always knew I would be donning a hat on the big day. The 21st century really doesn’t afford me with enough occasions to wear anything other than a beret on my napper you see. So the plan was to get a massive fuck off hat and sob uncontrollably at the front of the registry office. For many months I have been scouring the globe (OK London) searching for the perfect head adornment. There will certainly be none of this token John Lewis feather fascinator malarkey going on my head! (I would quite like to channel some sort of bird or animal a la Carrie Bradshaw FYI).

However, over the past few weeks I found that this need to wear a huuuuugGGGEeee hat (although still there) has become secondary to sporting a rather fabulous and awe-inspiring hairstyle. A vintage homage to Katherine Hepburn if you will. Picture a thick glossy mane coiled into a croissant shape that boggles the mind with its sheer defiance of the laws of physics! The hat while still important, would not fight for attention with the bouffant, but would compliment it by perching on top perfectly. Of course a trip to the hairdressers will be necessary, but that’s OK because it signifies that I truly am a grown up. (I remember when I was a child and attended weddings with my mother, that on the morning of such an occasion the ‘ladies’ went to the hairdressers had their hair pinned up while I busied myself smoking candy cigarettes)

And then this morning I read this. And it suddenly occurred to me where this hairstyle that I envision so vividly, that has slowly come to fruition in my mind over the past few months, had unconsciously been sparked from. The Polygamic cult in America! GAH!

Is this how it starts? First I like the hair? Then I start buying the clothes they sell on-line? And before you know it I’ve moved to Texas bought me a bible and become a fully blown member of a cult?!

Unsurprisingly, this is not how I see my life going (who wants to dress in polyester and have only one tenth of a husband?). So it has come to pass that the hat will after all be victorious over the hair (which will be left au naturelle). This however, brings up a very different problem that has nothing to do with God. Where does one find a beautiful hat that every high-street department store hasn’t done a knocked off version of? Ebay is the obvious choice, but frustrated after hours of trawling their site and being outbid at the last minute *shakes fist* has lead me to decide that I want to splash out and treat myself.

So, after spending far to many work hours on the internet clicking endlessly on links and looking at some horrendous eyesores, I finally hit gold. Rachel Trevor Morgan has an amazing selection of hats, fascinators and hairpieces that suit all ages and styles. Young, old, conservative, exhibitionist… We are all catered for! And while this is not what I envisioned wearing to my friends wedding, I am particularly fond of this black number that is reminiscent of Dior’s New Look. Because if I can’t have the hair of that era without looking like a bible-bashing cult member at least I can have the hat.

Edith

How to… Shop in a charity shop (and not look like a hobo)

We’ve all been lulled into our local charity shop under the guise of eco-shopping and the promise of finding a real vintage treat. A sixties dress? A 70s jacket? An 80s jumpsuit? The excitement! It doesn’t happen. The scouts for retro shops nearly always buy them before they are even on the shop floor, fuckers.*

Fear not though, there are treats to be had that you will find in even the most dire of charity shops. You know, the ones you walk into and just think “WHY AM I HERE, SWEET JESUS?”. Seriously! Here’s a list of 6 things to look out for:

1. Mens shirts: Every second hand place has a multitude of these bad boys. Avoid anything that isn’t 100% cotton and check to make sure there are no pit stains and dirt on the collar. These look great worn belted over short skirts for that St Trinian vibe and tucked into jeans teamed with a blazer for that androgenous look. Expect to pay between £3 – £6.

2. Mens formal accessories: Don’t head out of the men’s department just yet, it’s a great place to pick up things that add an element of fun to your wardrobe. Look for ties, braces and cummerbunds. All of these, when teamed with the right thing look great. Think about a bright tie with a fitted shirt: a perfect work look. Braces with jeans and trainers: casual weekend frolicks. A clashing colour cummerbund with a t-shirt and heels: an evening out. The important thing to remember here is that these things must be in good condition. As eye-catching items, if they don’t look smart, your whole look will be perceived as scruffy. Prices range from £0.50 – £5.00

3. Womens tailored jackets: You can pick up some real gems in the jacket and coat section of a charity shop. People tend to tire of these items long before they are ready for the rag-bag. Be sure to check the linings, especially near the armholes. Make sure buttonholes and zips are secure. Classic colours like navy are always a wise purchase but when shopping second-hand you can afford to be more adventurous and go for something in hot pink. You get what you pay for here, so be prepared to part with up to £30.

4. Costume Jewellery: Most of my jewellery has been amassed from places like the Salvation Army, Cancer Research and Scope. You can find amazing statement necklaces, brooches and often vintage clip-on earrings and watches from the 50s and 60s. Clip-ons are making a come back so these are definitely worth looking out for. Usually, prices start at around £1 for earrings and go up to £10 for a watch.

5. Silk Scarves: Rummage around in the scarf bin, often you can find some pretty pieces, that if not Hermes certainly looks like it. Pounce on anything 100% silk. Square shaped scarfs are great to recreate this season’s looks. Hold them to the light to check for any flaws and to make sure they are not fraying. For a silk scarf you will be looking at paying around £4.

6. Hats: Old laydees tend to donate them (especially the pillar-box variety, which is hot hot hot right now) and they cost a fraction of the price they do new. Great for the wedding season which is almost upon us. A run of the mill pillar-box should be around the £2.50 mark but expect to pay up to £7 for something a bit jazzy.

Things to avoid, pants (euuuwwww, need I say more?), shoes (nearly always scuffed and stretched) and t-shirts (often washed out and mis-shapen).

Finally, before I send you on your way (via Oxfam of course), remember when going charity shopping, take your old bras for donation. Because one woman’s trash is another woman’s over the shoulder boulder holder.

Edith

* with the exception of traid, some of their stores specialise in vintage fashion and usually have an excellent retro stock.

Please note that prices are rough guides and will vary from area to area.