Wear the line: Key Fashion Trend AW09

Autumn heralds the new Body Con, Body Con(tour). The look has finally evolved away from its Herve Leger carnation. Its focus has shifted so that it is no longer fixated around figure hugging apparel alone. Garments are still form fitting, but they now incorporate  lines that trace the contours of the body, changing in thickness and direction so that they literally map the frame.

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Top row from left to right: Julien Macdonald, Ann-Sofie Back, Christopher Kane. Middle row from left to right: Vivienne Westwood, Topshop Unique, Giles. Bottom row from left to right: Richard Nicoll, Krystof Strozyna, Josh Goot.

Edith

London Fashion Week: Print trends for AW09

Prints have been very prominent on the catwalks. Most London designers are taking their cues from nature or science fiction and the resulting patterns can be divided into two very clear trends. Winter florals and space Odyssey.

Winter Florals: Anything (or any flower) goes here. Large, small, soft, bold, bright or subtle.

Top row from left to right: Peter Jensen, Betty Jackson, Edrem. Middle row from left to right: Future Classics, Paul Smith, Kinder Aggugini. Bottom row from left to right: Avsh Alom Gur, Luella and Ossie Clark.

Space Odyssey: Think sci-fi graphic designs predominantly in reds and greys.

Top row from left to right: Marios Schwab, Danielle Scutt, Giles. Bottom row from left to right: Richard Nicoll, William Tempest, Topshop Unique

Edith

AW 09/10: key colour palette

Blues and buttery golds are spread all over the catwalks in London and New York. Soft, bright, printed, texturised, they work together in any combination.

London:

New York:

Edith

Body Con(tour)

Body conscious has evolved. This trend is now much more than figure hugging apparel. The new Body Con (as shown below by Christopher Kane, Richard Nicoll and Krystof Strozyna) has lines that literally map the contours of the body.

Edith

London Fashion Week: Surprise trends

It’s only day 3 but already we’ve been thrown some trend curve balls.

Merkin embellishment:

Fancy hoods:

Fat black:

Scorched prints:

But which of these micro movements do you think will continue their reign on the catwalks to become a fully fledged trend?

Edith

visually rusty

It’s easy to over think a fashion blog and mistakenly agonise over every post, wanting it to be a few hundred well written, witty, insightful, enjoyable and observational words. Then you realise that there are a lot of really shit blogs out there and that detailed descriptions in the web world are pretty defunct, just wasted. They (whoever ‘they’ are) are right when they say that a picture can say a thousand words.

So, after pondering for some days now on what I wanted to say about the NY shows it occurred to me that I didn’t really need to say anything. By my reckoning this post contains 4111 words already, highlighting beautifully the timely and industrial, rusty hues that will become a key colour in Autumn Winter 09/10.

Edith

The shape of things to come

You’d have to be a hibernating bear (and indeed have been hibernating for quite some time) to be completely unaware of the current worldwide financial crisis. A consequence of this meltdown is that the style sections of newspapers and magazines are now devoted to churning out features on investment dressing. Hem lines! WHAT. DO. THEY. MEAN? Some say they rise, and some are adamant that they fall with the stock market.

Ddjhfjkhudsuuuuuut6y7ue eeeebdhjsssPU)cl;xz zzzzzzzzzz’. Oh, sorry! Seem to have dozed off there. Trying to keep track of what length my skirt should be and the cost per wear of any investment pieces I am thinking of purchasing has left me simply exhausted.

But, there is more to say on this subject then what’s currently being recycled in the media, which is “customers should look for investment pieces and value for money”. Well. Yes.

Jess Cartner-Morley, fashion editor at the Guardian explores this well excavated subject a little further in this article, lean times and hemlines. It’s a feature about how fashion will be affected by the credit crunch, in the aesthetic sense rather than a business one. She reflects upon the trends that emerged from the boom and bust times in recent history with a view of defining this economic crisis’ appearance. She draws no firm conclusions but she does highlight a couple of interesting theories including this one from Valerie Steele, internationally renowned Fashion Historian:

The hemlines theory was invented back in the 1920s. But it just doesn’t hold up. Take the 20s – hemlines actually began to fall in 1927, two years before the crash. They were falling by 1969, two years before the downturn of 1971

Contrary to popular belief it would seem that the ‘look’ of the great depression was actually a result of what was fashionable the two years prior to it.

Jess then goes on to quote Jo Hooper, Head of Womenswear at John Lewis. Hooper implies that the softer, sculpted, voluminous silhouette that is becoming popular will be the defining look of the recession. She identifies the current vogue for the round-shouldered look as:

cocooning, which is the feeling of wrapping up, of hunkering down. It’s a basic human instinct.

Both of these theories are very feasible. However never one to rest on my laurels, I decided to do some research of my own. Mystic Meg wouldn’t return my calls, so I settled for the next best thing: Mark Watson, the Womenswear Editor at trend forecasting agency WGSN. I asked him for his thoughts on what he felt the look of the credit crunch would be. This is the PG version of his email response:

The most obvious effect of ‘The credit crunch’ as we saw during Paris Fashion week is that most designers will march to their own tune, sticking to what they know best and satisfying customers who are loyal to their labels rather than putting their heads on the chopping block of fashion whimsies. What may be of interest is that prior to this financial crisis designers were focusing on the shoulder and the power dressing 80s particularly taking silhouettes from Thierry Mugler and Claude Montana. In times of a strong financial system there is a the ‘power’ look whilst we at WGSN are currently moving towards a more fantastical, ethereal feeling soft layers, a looser silhouette looking at Bill Gibb also Nina Ricci collection in Paris.

Reading these three very different responses from credible industry experts; it is obvious that defining what the aesthetic of the credit-crunch will be is no easy feat. Not least because there are no parallels to be drawn between ‘fashions’ from one recession to the next. Each financial crisis has been brought about by different economic factors, which therefore in turn mean consumer habits, circumstances and attitudes are unique to that period of time.

Nevertheless history will record that this recession had a ‘style’ just as it has done for the 1930s and 1970s, regardless of whether it was actually the result of the downturn.

So, lets try and put this subject to bed once and for all! Vote! VOTE! VOTE LIKE YOU ARE SHAPING TOMORROW! Because you are.

Edith

All images are SS09 from Style.com. In order of appearance: Balmain, Balenciaga, Nina Ricci

Going for gold

If a tree falls in a forest but no-one is around to hear it, does it make a sound? If I wear a Giles dress reminiscent of an ice-cream sundae with glitzy silver sandals and a sugar pink pacman helmet to the park but no-one sees me, am I making a fashion statement? If people are wearing fabrics constructed out of metal but no-one realises, do we have a new trend?

Apparently the answer to all of these questions is no. And so I, Ms Edith Purdy of the 82nd regiment from the 1st fashion battalion (I’ve been watching the new series of Sharpe), have come to put an end to this madness! There is a metallic movement emerging and recognise it we must!

Now before you all start sucking your teeth at me and declaring that metallic has been around for donkeys, that I need new specs (which I do) and don’t know squat about fashion, let me explain. I’m not talking about the kind of metallic that we see season after season on accessories. Or the type that strikes like a flu epidemic every winter in the form of sequins (when will they introduce a vaccination for that?). What I’m referring to is a completely different animal. It’s closer in aesthetic to the bra exposing molten gold look seen on Miuccia Prada’s catwalk this September, but in essence it is really about the technical specifications of the cloth rather than its magpie appeal.

Fabrics that are woven with a mixture of traditional fibres (cottons, linens, silks) and experimental materials (stainless steel, aluminum, etc) are becoming more widespread, no longer confined to the realms of Premiere Vision. This use of metal within cloth lends a beautiful and malleable quality, in addition to architectural possibilities and a wonderful sheen. I suspect that the stunning gold textiles that featured so prominently in Prada’s SS09 show were the result of something like brass being integrated with a natural yarn. The clothes have sculpted crinkles that can only really be achieved with that kind of textile construction.

At the moment there are a lot of clothes out there that are metallic in appearance (too many to even shake a very light stick at), but sadly most of them have no actual metal content so lack the beauty that a fabric of that nature possesses. You need to check the labels to make sure you’re getting the real deal (although it is possible to tell by the feel of the fabric) and consider the price too – materials that incorporate metal do not come cheap.

If you’re anything like me you’re reading this and thinking, “yeah well, that’s great. Herald Prada as a label of innovation. That has NEVER been done before. And I can’t afford fucking Prada. And it’s not even available until next year. And top that off with your great news that most stores don’t sell a version of it. GREAT WORK, EDITH!”. *Punch! Jab! Poke!*

Fear not, dear readers! I would never do that to you. I’ve found two options that will allow you to get the authentic metallic look now.

Net-a-Porter is stocking this silver Anna Sui dress, which is 50% linen, 42% cotton and 8% metallic. It’s reduced to £123.75* and well worth snapping up. With carefully chosen accessories it will look incredible. However, if you are looking for something that will harmonise more easily with your wardrobe (read: not make you look like a meat joint that’s ‘resting’ before it is to be carved) than ASOS have this classic navy blue Disaya dress priced at £152* in the sale. It’s 90% polyester and 10% metallic. The metallic element is in the form of thread that is used to decorate the textile, the result is more subtle and an easier way to adopt this look.

And now a disclaimer: it is obvious to everyone that the two-tone look that these metallic materials create is not revolutionary. These fabrics have their roots in the wet look / shimmery jeans that have been popularised in recent months because of labels such as Balmain and Givenchy. But, it is important to note that the quality that woven metal lends to a finished garment is unique. Whilst silver shiny leggings will continue to appeal to the masses for some time yet, this is a sophisticated leg up from that trend; and it’s a look in its own right that shouldn’t be pigeon-holed in the generic metallic category.

This metallic must be appreciated for what it is. An innovative, underground style trend with longevity. It’s ideal for thinking fashionistas everywhere. Those who won’t settle for anything less in life than gold.

Edith

P.s I am the only one who can’t stop singing going for gold now? TUNE!

*Prices were correct at the time of publishing

Autumn/Winter 08/09 Trends

Want to update your wardrobe, but not sure where to start? Need help figuring out which autumn trends are for you? Look no further! Some Like it Fashion is here to help! This questionnaire will help you identify your key looks for the season; because as we all know the many complex problems of the universe can be solved with a simple and clichéd survey:

Which of the following quotes do you most identify with?

1. Work is like a sport. It’s hard and we all want to win. (Harold Tillman)
2. Imagine no possessions, I wonder if you can, No need for greed or hunger, A brotherhood of man. (John Lennon)
3. Her children arise up, and call her blessed; her husband also, and he praiseth her. Many daughters have done virtuously, but thou excellest them all. (Proverbs 31)
4. I never leave underwear at a guys place because I never see it again. (Samantha Jones, SATC)
5. I fear being a completely acceptable sheep in society (Marylin Manson)

What is your favourite colour?

1. The colour of money.
2. Brown, the shade of the earth.
3. Traditional warm shades of red and green.
4. Anything that brings attention to my tits.
5. Black. Dark black.

What do you have on your i-pod?

1. A mixture of stuff. Classical, power ballads, soft rock. I’m very eclectic. And clever.
2. I-pod? Dude, you’ve gotta get it on vinyl!
3. What’s an i-pod? Do you mean music? I have a Cliff Richard album on cassette. Mistletoe and Wine is a tuuuuune!
4. Cheesey pop, stuff I can reaaaaally dance to. Britney, Xtina, Girls aloud, Beyonce, they’re all on there.
5. Bauhaus, The Cure, Siouxsie and the Banshees. I like bands that have black album covers.

What is your theme tune?

1. Eye of the tiger, Survivor.
2. Born to be wild, Steppen Wolf
3. A spoonful of sugar, Mary Poppins
4. I touch myself, The Divinyls
5. Ignore the machine, Alien Sex Fiend

What is your favourite part of the body?

1. My mind. The body is over sexualised by the media. I want to be appreciated for my intelligence and wit. There is more to me than my breasts.
2. Whoaaah, heavy question dude. I guess my hands. Without them, how would I smoke?
3. The womb. It gives the greatest gift. That of life.
4. The schlong. Yum.
5. Hair. It can be died black.

If you had to watch a Demi Moore film ,which would you chose?

1. G.I. Jane
2. One Crazy Summer
3. Ghost
4. Disclosure
5. The Seventh Sign. (It is dark film. Dark is like black.)

If you were an animal you’d be…

1. A crocodile. They’re adaptable survivors. They see what they want and they get it.
2. A bird. They are free of the politics of our society. They can fly and roam as they please.
3. A dog. They are loyal, loving and reliable. Just like me.
4. A monkey. They can masturbate in public and nobody judges them.
5. A bat. They are black and they like blackness.

If you were a bear you’d be…

1. A spectacled bear. I want to be taken seriously.
2. A sloth. Chillax, man.
3. A polar bear. They are the cutest by far.
4. A panda. When I have sex it’s newsworthy.
5. An American black bear. Because they’re black.

*Drumroll*

Prepare to be dazzled (and a little freaked out at how spookily accurate I am) . If you answered mostly:

1: Ambitious, driven and tenacious. That’s you that is. You work hard and you are going places. Daaaam straight. Your wardrobe reflects your desire to be taken seriously by your peers. You want to look successful yet intimidating. And riiiiich. The super-structured tailoring and sculptural trends are perfect for you. Look to YSL, Balenciaga and Jil Sander for inspiration.

2: Although you may not know it yet, deep, deep, deep, deep down you are a kaftan wearing, incense lighting, peace loving, hairy armpitted, stinky hippy. Yup. Embrace your inner tree hugger this season with Gucci, Hermes and Dries Van Noten. They will let you indulge your wandering Indian spirit with their interpretations of folk (fringing, paisley and embroidery) and tunics and trousers trends.

3: Hear that? Listen quietly. Yes, that. It´s your ovaries throbbing. You see family is your main focus. Either the one you have or the desire in your womb to have one ASAP. Clothes are secondary to this (a very important secondary mind you). This season you´ll need washable items in colours and prints that don’t show chocolate hand prints and baby vomit. Tartan is ideal for this, as is the heritage trend with its practical fabrics. Dolce and Gabanna, Vivienne Westwood and Paul Smith should be your starting points.

4: Oh you doity, doity, doity, dooooog. You loved to get dressed up, for well, any occasion. But not to the detriment of your body mind you (you side stepped that whole sack dress debacle unlike the rest of us). You’ll love this season’s peek-a-boo (sheer fabrics such as chiffons) and tomato red trends. They’re ideal for the gorgeous exhibitionist in you. Check out Dior, Giles and La Perla.

5: Black. You love it. You wear it not because you feel safe in it like most people, you choose black because you feel it differentiates you from the masses. You wear it with an edge. If you weren’t a goth a school you almost certainly secretly fancied one. Channel your black passion using the lace and soft goth trends this season. Prada, Givency and Chanel will be right up your dark street.

Edith

The Modern Eyebrow

Before I get onto the subject of eyebrows, I’d like to start by saying I am really stupid. You see the London College of Fashion Magazine launch I posted about a few weeks ago was nothing of the sort. It was a complete con! A fabulous con complete with canapés and cocktails but a con non-the-less. It turns out that ‘magazine’ was actually code for ‘prospectus’ and I was the only person at the party that didn’t psychically interpret that from the invite. Hurumpf. Anyway, the reason I’m embarrassing myself by telling you this, is that while at this event I had a defining moment in my search for the perfect eyebrow.

For some time now I have been in pursuit of the perfect ‘modern’ eyebrow. An eyebrow that is straight and thick and full. The journey originally begun last summer when I accepted a new job, I still had the harsh words of a make-up artist I was on a shoot with echoing round my head ‘you have very old fashioned eyebrows’. Gawd dammit! I don’t have old fashioned anything if I can help it! So, I let my eyebrows grow for 3 weeks whilst on holiday and had them threaded two days before I started the position. “New job, new shape” was my rationale. The look satisfied me for some time, they were a marked improvement on the dramatic brows that predated them (for which I blame Cosmo and my mam by the way. Both encouraged me to pluck far too young. I lacked experience, style and enough sense to know what I was doing was going to affect my looks for years to come. What resulted was a very Gothic architectural inspired shape that made me look permanently surprised). Eventually though the novelty of my reshaped eyebrows wore off, they were nice enough but they were still no Natalia.

Fast forward a little to the ‘magazine’ launch. I’m having fun, guzzling the free cocktails and sneering at the hoxtonites. No one would guess that I was in the middle of my very own browgate. I was over 6 weeks in. I was growing out my ‘old-fashioned’ shape to make way for the ‘modern’ eyebrow. If you were to sweep my fringe aside you would see the full horror of my situation. I looked (and still look) like I fell asleep in a play-school and was attacked by several million children armed with marker pens and an unusual affinity with Frida Kahlo.

Anyway, it was here while stroking the very in elusive and very long hair on my chin that I had a series of awful thoughts that went something like this – why won’t my eyebrows grow as strong and as quickly as the hair that insists on inhabiting my face? What if they never grow in properly? My eyebrows STILL have baldy patches 6 weeks in! It’s so unfair! I have alopecia of the eyebrow! As I get older I have less hair in the places I want and much, much more everywhere else. Does it simply serve to amuse Jebus that I have now have hairs in random places like my big toes? (Did I just grim you out there? I grimed myself out a little).

The panic settled in. I tried to disguise it by eating mini toad in the holes but that didn’t work because some fucking genius decided to put horseradish on them. HORSERADISH ON PORK? Heathens. Panic was swiftly replaced by nausea and I was forced to put my thinking cap on just to distract myself. What should I do? What should I do to remedy this pickle I had found myself in?

And so I came up with a plan of action complete with contingencies if the unspeakable should happen and my eyebrows *gulp* remain sparse. Firstly, I set a deadline. I would give my eyebrows until just before my birthday to right themselves and if nothing had changed then I would have them threaded to as thick a shape as possible and move onto plan B. Eyebrow thickening products. If they won’t grow, I’ll just buy the hairy beasts!

My birthday is now less than three weeks away. And in case I need to resort to emergency action I’ve been trying as many products as possible i.e. as many as my job will allow me to call in without being fired. They range from the very cheap to the inordinately expensive. And being a kind, generous, helpful person I am sharing the best 3 with you:

Lancôme high precision eyebrow pencil: The colour lasts all day and is surprisingly natural. Many eyebrow pencils (Chantecaille’s included!) can give your eyebrow an orange tinge and Lancôme manage to avoid that landmine.

Shavata heart shaped tweezers: Tweezing your eyebrows into a strong shape can make them look thicker. These tweezers are part of a mini kit that includes a mirror with 5 x magnification. Perfect for plucking! What I really love is the compact size and the kitsch design. The squeals my friends make when I pull this out of my handbag are unreal. My only gripe is that trying to get the tweezers out of the compact can be a bit fiddly.

Talika eyebrow extender: This is my favourite product by far. You sweep the head along your brow, it leaves fibres that mimic your eyebrow and create the illusion of thickness. Aye carumba! It’s quite addictive, that’s the only problem. Like pringles. Once you pop you can’t stop. And if you apply too much your eyebrows become hard and glossy. A great product if you can show restraint!

So there you go. I have shared my knowledge. If I can save just one person from going through what I have experienced, my pain will all be worth it. *Wipes tear from eye*

Edith